Off the Beaten Track

New Territories

Although a third of Hong Kong's population lives in new towns constructed in the New Territories, the area has some scenic escapes, including the Sai Kung Peninsula, in the east, which is an unspoilt playground for hikers, campers, swimmers and boaters. Bird-watchers head to the Mai Po Marsh; cyclists and walkers head to Plover Cove Reservoir; hiking enthusiasts set out on the 100km-long (62mi-long) MacLehose Trail which spans the New Territories from Tuen Mun in the west to Pak Tam Chung in the east. Shui Tau, a walled village on the outskirts of Kam Tin, is one of several small communities in the area famous for its carved roofs and traditional-style Chinese houses.

Outlying Islands

There are 234 outlying islands, many of them little more than uninhabited rocks. However, Cheung Chau (2.5 sq km; 1 sq mi) has 22,000 residents and is fast developing into a mini Honolulu, although there is no motorised traffic. Lantau, the largest of the islands (142 sq km; 55 sq mi) has a population of 45,000, a 933m (3060ft) peak, and a 70km (43mi) walking trail, but has avoided many of the development excesses of other islands. It is home to several important monasteries, including Po Lin Monastery with its enormous bronze Buddha. Thanks to the newish airport development, Lantau is now connected by bridge to the mainland. Other islands worth visiting include Lamma, Peng Chau, Poi Toi and the uninhabited Tung Lung Chau.

Shenzhen SEZ

While there are surely better places in China to find yourself, a daytrip up to the Shenzhen SEZ (Special Economic Zone) might be just the kind of culture shock you're after. Regarded as an ugly, business-oriented and souless kit town (sound inviting yet?), Shenzhen is also increasingly geared towards travellers from Hong Kong. Shenzhen City, just across an always-crowded border point from Lo Wu in Hong Kong, is hardly a great place to discover the beauty and culture that China is famous for. But it is perhaps the perfect place to see China's emerging embrace of the free market in action; HK shoppers often find the bargains in Shenzhen that simply don't exist anymore in Hong Kong. Wander the streets, grab a real Guangzhou meal, fob off the pimps, check out the market stalls and bargain hard.

If you're a keen fan of international tack, you'll find little to match the hideous splendour of several theme parks just west of the city. Splendid China lets you 'visit all of China in one day', Window of the World extends the concept to the whole world, while Maya Beach is a re-created Caribbean strand with a smoke-belching volcano and artificial waves. Having said all that, there is actually a pretty good gallery of modern art in the region - just follow the crowds to the McDonald's and turn left.

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