The floating emerald islands of the Indonesian archipelago have, for centuries, been a magnet to a diverse range of people. Chinese and Indian traders, European colonisers, proselytising missionaries, wayward adventurers, mining companies, intrepid travellers and package tourists have all, at one time or another, been attracted by its sandalwood and spices breezes, its Bali Hai lifestyle and its magnificent beaches, mountains and volcanoes.

But another frequent visitor to Indonesia is the war correspondent covering the latest uprising, coup, terrorist attack or riot. The myth of a paradisical country blessed with natural resources is often put to the test by deep racial divides, religious warring, high-handed autocracy, government corruption, economic mismanagment and natural disasters. The latest round of sectarian violence and military muscle-flexing has made Indonesia a problematic destination for most western travellers.

Warning

On 28 March, 2005 an earthquake measuring 8.7 on the Richter scale occurred 322km (200mi) of the coast of western Sumatra. Islands, including Nias and the Banyak island group suffered severe damage and loss of life. Travellers are advised to avoid the area until the situation has stabilised.

US and Australian travel advisories recommend that travellers defer non-essential travel to Indonesia. A bomb exploded outside the Australian Embassy on 9 September, 2004, and recent evidence suggests further terrorist attacks on Western targets are being planned. Travellers are advised to avoid staying in identifiably Western hotels. Keep an eye on media reports, and check the safety situation with embassies in Jakarta, or the travel advisory on consular and government websites.

Indonesia has suffered great upheaval since 1998, resulting in everything from peaceful demonstrations to armed conflict. Nevertheless, the situation in Indonesia can be misrepresented, making it seem like the whole nation is in turmoil. At the time of writing, areas of Central Sulawesi, Aceh, Papua and Maluku were experiencing unrest; however, safe travel to some parts of these areas was still possible. There were also heightened security risks in parts of Kalimantan and West Timor. It pays to keep abreast of the news if travelling extensively in Indonesia, especially relating to the volatile situation in Aceh.

Full country name: Republic of Indonesia
Area: 1,904,000 sq km
Population: 216 million (growth rate 1.5%)
Capital city: Jakarta (pop 9.3 million)
People: There are 365 ethnic and tribal groups. The principal ones are Acehnese, Bataks, Minangkabaus (Sumatra); Javanese, Sundanese (Java); Balinese (Bali); Sasaks (Lombok); and Dani (Irian Jaya)
Language: Bahasa Indonesia (plus 583 dialects), English
Religion: 87% Muslim, 9% Christian, 2% Hindu
Government: Military-ruled republic
President: Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono

GDP: US$67 billion
GDP per head: US$550
Annual growth:-4%
Inflation: 11.9%
Major products/industries: Oil, gas, textiles, timber, coffee, rubber, coal, tin, copper, rice, pepper, palm oil
Major trading partners: Japan, USA, Singapore

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